Undergarment



June 27, 1933. BERGER H M 1,916,133

UNDERGARMENT Filed March 51, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 and Loads Leuerwwc June 27, 1933. 5 L, BERGER ET AL 1,916,133

UNDERGARMENT Filed March 31, 1953 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 f WW I Irweni'ar: Same-ll. Be rye r m I 0W1 evemo :0

QJWPMJ Patented June 27, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SAMUEL L. BERGER, OF NEWTON CENTER, KASSACHUSETTS, AND LOUIS IiEVENSON,

' OF FLUSHING, NEW YORK unnmonmmn'r Application filed March 31, 1933. Serial No. 663,840.

The present invention relates to improvements in undergarments. While some of the phases of the present invention may be applicable generally to a variety of types of undergarments, the present invention is particularly concerned with childrens undergarments.

One phase of the present invention relates to providing such portions of a' childrens undergarment, which desirably should cling to the body of the wearer, with elastic means which will serve to prevent any distortion of such portion due to wear and repeated washings. More particularly, this phase of the invention is applied to such portions of the undergarment as the free edges thereof, or'

at the ends of the legs and sleeves of the garment. In some cases this phase of the invention may be applied at a seam in which a cuif is attached-to a leg of the garment.

In the embodiment of this phase of the invention as shown in the present drawings, a fibre covered round elastic yarn is employed,

such as the vulcanized or semi-vulcanized.

fibre covered squirted rubber yarn. In the practical execution of this phase of the invention this yarn is entrapped and held in posi-' tion by the type of stitch commonly employed in the manufacture of such' garments,namely the type of stitch having a pair of interlocked parallel lines of stitching. The fibre covered elastic yarn is fed preferablyunder the desired tension during the stitching operation and is entrapped and held between the stitch and the face of the materialto which the I stitch is being applied. Such stitching may be in the form of over-locked edging which is commonly employed for finishing ofi'a free end of the garment, or it may be in the form of the hemstitch which is commonly employed in attaching a cuif to the leg portion of the garment.

Another phase of the invention resides in the construction of a garment having an elastic drop seat, the garment being so constructed that the tension applied to the upper edge of the drop seat is transmitted to the shoulder of the-garment,'thereby preventing the repeated stretching of the main body pordetail of another tions of the garment and thereby prolonging the life of the garment.

Another phase of the invention resides in applying the tensioned fibre covered yarn to the lower edge of the inside flap of the garment, therebyfcausing the same to fit snugly against the body of the wearer of the garment, and minimizing the interference of the flap with the upward movement of the drop sea The various phases of the invention may be more readily understood by persons skilled 1n the art by referring to the drawings accompanying the present application, it being understood, however, that such drawings illustrate the preferred embodiments of the present invention and that the essential prin'- ciples of the present invention may be em bodied in a variety of forms falling within the scone of the appended c'iaims.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a rear view of a childs union undergarment embodying the present invention and shown with one of the reinforcing tapes removed.

Figure 2 is a vertical section taken'on the line 2"2 of Figure 1.

F1ghre3 .is an enlarged fragmentary detail of one phase of the present invention.

Figure 4. is another enlarged fragmentary phase of the present inven- T tion.

Figure 5 illustrates the manner in which the garment shown in Figure 1 is employed. Flgure 6 shows the basic elemental parts which are employed in constructing the gar ment shown in Figure 1.

Figure 7 is an enlarged face view of the overlook edging and its cooperation with thefibrecovered elastic yarn employed in the present invention.

Figure 7a is a sectional view of Figure 7. Figure 8 is a-sectional view of the structure resulting at the seam of the leg and cuif.

Figure 9 shows a childs shirt embodying one phase of the present invention.

Figure 10 is an enlarged detail of one end of the elastic web.

The type of garment shown in Figures 1 and 5 is a childrens buttonless union undergarment which is commonly made of tubular knitted material. The structure of this garment will be best understood from a description of the manner in which this garment is cut and from a further description of the successive operations to which the cut garment is subjected in order to complete the same.

Referring, therefore, to Figure .6, reference character 10 shows a piece of tubular knitted material havingQa cut-out portion 11, to provide a pair of armholes, and cut-out portion 12 to provide a head opening. The lines 13 and 14 represent the uncut olds of the tubular material. The line 15 represents a transverse or horizontal cut, extending from the edge 14 to substantially the midpoint 16 of the tubular material. The line 17 represents a vertical cut downwardly from the point 16 to a point perhaps somewhat more than half way along the leg portion of the material. i

7 It will now be understood that the line 15 represents the upper edge of the drop seat 18, which exten s between the two cuts or slits that are represented by the line '17.

The curved line 19 represents the lower edge of the legs of the garment and the shape of this line depends upon the type of leg which the garment is intended to have. In the form of the garment shown in this figure, the leg is out high and is intended to receive what is commonly known in the trade as a French cuii. Line 20 represents a slit in another portion of the garment which is designed to receive the gusset 21 between the I two edges formed by this slit. More specifically the edges. 22 and 23 of the gusset are sewed onto the edges formed by the slit 20. The line 24 represents another slit in the tube,

- shaped as shown in Figure 6 and is designed to receive the curved edge 25 of the gusset 21. The element 26 shows the inner flap-as originally cut.

After the garment is cut'as shown in Figure 6 the first operation consists in sewing the gusset 21 onto the element 10. As has already been explained, this is done by sewing the edges 22 and 23 of the gusset to the edges formed by the-slit 20 and the curved edge 25 is sewed onto the edges formed by the line y 24. This sewing is preferably done by a flat lock seam. The cuffs 27 are now sewed'to the legs along the line 19. In this operation a two needle hemming machineis employed and the stitching formed is composed of four threads and when completed eonsistsof two parallel lines of stitching which are interocked by means of threads across each face of the seam. In this operation the edge portion adjacent to the line 19 of the leg is.inserted between the edge portions of the French cufi'. The heinstitching formed by this operation consists of two parallel lines of stitching 30 and 31, these being interlocked by the transverse threads 32 and 33.

During this stitching operation a fibre covered elastic rubber yarn 34 is fed into the machine preferably under slight tension. This yarn is preferably fed between one of the edge portions of the cufi' and the edge portion of the leg of the garment, and is fed insuch a manner that it is held and entrapped by the stitching so that it is disposed parallel to and between the lines of stitching 30 and 31. The fact that the yarn is snugly held and entrapped by the stitching prevents the yarn from contracting and it remains at substantially the tension to which it has been subjected during the stitching operation. The yarn is permitted to extend freely from each end of this seam to the extent of perhaps an inch or two for a subsequent bar tacking,

operation which will be described hereinafter.

A sectional view of the structure formed by this operation will be seen in Figure 8.

In the next foperation in the process of constructing the present garment the flap 26 shown in Figure 6 is treated so as to provide the lower edge 35 with means which will cause the fiap to adhere snugly to the body of the wearer and thereby prevent the flap from interfering with the operation of the elastic drop seat. This is done by applying a merrow overlock seam or stitch to this lower edge 35 of the flap. As in the hem stitch which joins the cuff to the leg,

.so in thisoperation a fibre covered elastic rubber yarn is fed to the machine during the performance of this stitching operation so the \faoe of the material adjacent the edge thereof by the cross threads of the stitch. Both at the beginning and at the end of this edging operation at least one inch of the elastic yarn is chained off, by merely feeding the am into the machine prior to the introduction of the flap so that the stitching forms a sort of sleeve around one inch of the arn; this also being done after the stitchmg has covered the entire length of the edge of the flap. This chained oil portion of the yarn is subsequently employed for firmly anchoring the yarn as will be described hereinafter; The chained off portions of the yarn 36 are shown at 39 and 40 in Figure 6 of the drawings.

In the next operation the elastic web 42 is attached to the upper edge portion of the drop seat 1 8 which obviously also includes a part of tlie gusset 21 which has been inof the same material as the elastic fibre covered yarn in that it consists of a woven fabric employing the fibre covered semi-vulcanized squirted rubber yarn for the weft'of the fabric and any other yarn for the warp thereof, as is clearly shown at 42 in Figure 3. In addition the lower edge of the webbing consists of a narrow strip of woven material 43. In attaching this webbing to the top of the drop seat, this portion 43 is made to overlap the upper edge portionof the drop seat 18 and this operation is preferably accomplished by a nine thread fiat lock stitch. In this operation the webbing is preferably subjected to the desired tension. More specifically, the length of webbing which is actually attached to the top of the drop seat is approximately seventy-five percent of the width of this drop seat. In addition approximately one inch of webbing is permitted to project free beyond the edge of the drop seat. This one inch piece at each end of the webbing is folded upon itself -andis then bar tacked to itself by means of the bar tack stitching 44.

It should be noted at this point that the nine thread flat lock stitching which attaches the webbing to the drop seat results in the ment.

formation of a smooth gathered seam and eliminates undesirable roughness in the joint, thereby reducing the wear and tear at this particular seam to a minimum.

At this time the drop seat, together with the webbing is free at the ends thereof from the rest of the garment by virtue of the slit 17. In the construction of the garment, therefore, the upper edge of the flap 26 is now attached to the lower edge of the main body portion of the back of the garment by means of a merrow overlook horizontal stitch 45.

In the next operation the side edges of the flap 26 are joined to the garment by a nine thread fiat lock stitch. This operation also closes the slit or cut'17 and this one stitching operation, therefore, serves to unite the front of the garment on one side of the line 17, the drop seat on the other side of the =line 17, and the corresponding side edge of the fiap. It will be understood, of course, that this operation is in duplicate, one at each side of the garment. In the performance of this stitching operation the chained off overhanging portions 39 and 40 of the elastic yarn projecting from the bottom of the flap are bent downwardly and are entrapped by this nine thread fiat lock stitch. This fiat lock stitch 46, therefore, extends from a point approximately one inch below the lower edge of-the flap upwardly to the upper edge of the flap and is then preferably extended all the way upto the armpit along the side of the gar- This nine thread fiat lock stitch which begins at the bottom of the slit 17, crosses the web 42 and extending along the side of the garment to the pit of the armholes, consti-- tutes a reinforcement of the side of the garment and serves to transmit the pull and tension to which the webbing is subjected when it is in actual operation to the armhole. .In

order, however, to still further reinforce the slde of the garment and to provide an additional carrier of this force and tension, a re inforcing strip 47 is applied to each side of the garment immediately over the stitching 46. This reinforcement 47 is in the form of a tape of any desired material which is applied by a' lap felling stitch which converts a flat piece of material into tubular form while it sews the same onto the side of the garment. These elements 47 are attached directly to the webbing 42 immediately over the flat lock stitch 46 thereon and.over the bar tack stitching 44 which in turn is disposed below or interiorly of the fiat lock stitch 46. The nine thread fiat lock stitch 46 as'well as the stitching which attaches the webbing to the drop seat, may be briefly described as of the four needle, four looper and cross thread type of stitch and some such stitches are specifically illustrated in the patents to fate, #1,293,576, Gatchell, #1,30e,110, Onderdonk, 421,214,579 and McNeil, #1214563; it being understood of course that any form of stitch in this general class and which forms a tape-like reinforcement may be employed. It will also be understood that as a reinforcement in the side of the garment either this stitch may be employed alone without the tape or the tape of the elastic yarn at the lower edge of the 7 At this point in the construction of the l garment the neck and armholes of the garment are finished in a manner commonly known in the art, such as by the application of tapes 48 and 49. In the case of the tapes 48.which form the armholes of the garment the same are made to overlap and be attached directly to the reinforcing elements 47. Another bar tack stitching is now applied so as to more firmly interconnect the lower ends of the reinforcing elements 47 with the edge of the webbing 42. An additional piece of reinforcing tape 51 is folded upon itself and double bar tacked along the lines 52 and 53 to the ends of the webbing, elements 47 and to the garment. These precautions are taken so as to provide a permanent and strong joint between the ends of the webbing and the garment and the reinforcing elements 47 with the result that when the webbing is subjected to tension as shown in Figure 5 of the drawings the reinforcing elements 47 constitute a substantially continuous structure with the webbing and therefore serve to transmit allof the tension to the shoulders of the child. For clarity only one tape 51 is shown in Fig. 1. a

The next operation in the construction of the garment is directed to the anchoring of the chained ends of the elastic yarn at the bottom of the flap 26. This is done by a bar tack stitching at each end of the garment.

The cuii's 27 which had previously been attached to the legs of the garment now have their endssewed to each other by a fiat lock stitch 55.

seam holding the cufi's to the legs are now turned back upon themselvesiand bar tacked to each side of the seam.

It will now be'understood that the garment shown in Figures 1 and 5 provides a buttonless drop seat which is attached to the main body portion of the garment along the sides thereof and is provided with an elastic webbing at the top so that it returns to its normal position as soon as the child assumes an erect position. When in use the tension is transmitted through the reinforcing elements 47 as well as through the fiat lock stitch immediately under the reinforcing elements to the webbing 48 and through the webbing 48 at the armholes to the shoulders of the child. This is particularly important for the reason that no stresses are transmitted to the main body portion of the garment and the life of the garment is therefore prolonged. In addition the elastic yarn at the bottom of the flap 26 causes this flap to fit snugly against the body of the wearer with the result that it permits thefree return of. the drop seat and the webbing 4-2 to their normal positions. 4 l

The present garment, by virtue of the transmission of all stresses to the shoulder, gives the child full abdominal freedom, thereby aiding the childs posture, and permitting the child to perform natural functions with full natural freedom.

The elastic yarn 34in the seam at the lower end of the leg portion of the garment causes the lower edge of the garment to fit snugly against the childs leg and prevents the stretching and distortion which commonly occur in such garments through wear and re eated washings.

he type of elastic yarn embodied in the present garment at the edges of the garment, as well as in the webbing, is such that it does not present any out surfaces and therefore has a life much greater than the life of the garment itself and it does not lose its elasticity when stored for a eriod of years, nor is it affected by repeated washings.

Figure 9 shows another type of garment which embodies one concept of the present The ends of the elastic yarnv 34' which were projecting from the ends of the,

invention in that the lower edge 57 of the garment is provided with the usual overlook stitch for finishing off the raw edge of the material and also entraps a fibre covered.

sguirted elastic yarn. The structure of this e ge 57 will be apparent from Figures 7 and 7a. In this garment the free ends of the yarn are turned back upon themselves and are anchored by means of bar tack stitching 58. Similarly the free ends of the sleeves of this garment are provided with the same type of overlock stitch 50 which also entraps similar fibre covered elastic yarn. Here too the free ends of the yarn are bar tacked by bar tack stitching which entraps both ends of the yarn.

It will be understood that the specific embodiments of the present invention may be varied in many respects by persons skilled in the art, and may be embodied in a. variety of types of garments.

We claim:

1. In a union undergarment, the combination of front and back portions formed.

with a head 0 ening and a pair of armholes, the back portion having a transverse opening tluireacross and dividing the same into a main body portion and a seat, said seat having an olast c webbing across the top thereof having its ends attached to the sides of the garment directly below the armholes, a reinforcing non-elastic tape attached to each side of the garment and attached at one end to a point substantially at the bottom of the armhole, and at the other end to the said Webbing, an inside flap attached to the lower edge of the sad main body portion, and extending into the garment inside the seat, the side edges of said flap being attached to the garment, an overlook stitching on the lower edge of said flap, and a tensioned fibre covered elastic yarn entrapped between said.

stitching and the face of the fla immediately adjacent said lower edge, t e free ends of said yarn being chained oil with said stitching and anchored to the garment with bar tack stitching.

2. In a unjon undergarment, the combination of front and back portions formed of tubular knitted material with a head opening and a pair of armholes, the back portion having a transverse opening thereacross and dividing the same into a main body portion and a seat, said seat having an elastic webbing across the top thereof having its ends attached to the sides of the garment directly below the armholes, a reinforcing tape attached t'reach side of the garment and attached at one end to a point substant ally at flap being attached to the garment, an over-.

lock stitching on the lower edge of said flap,

and an elastic yarn entrapped between said stitching and the face of the flap immediately adjacent said lower edge. a

3. In a union undergarment, the combination of front and back portions formed of tubular knitted material with a head opening and a pair of armholes, the back portion having a transverse opening thereacross and dividing the same into a main body portion and a seat, said seat having an elastic webbing across the top thereof having its ends attached to the sides of the garment directly below the armholes, a reinforcing tape attached to each side of the garment and attached at one end to a point substantially at the bottom of the armhole and at the other end to the said webbing, and an inside flap extending from the said main body portion into the garment inside the seat.

4:. In a union undergarment, the combination of front and back portions formed with a head opening and a-pair of armholes, the back portion having a transverse opening thereacross and dividing the same into a main body portion and a seat, said seat having an elastic webbing across the .top thereof having its ends attached to the sides of the garment directly below the armholes, an inside flap extending from the said main body portion into the garment inside the seat, the side edges of said flap being attached to the garment, an overlock stitching on the lower edge of said lap, and a tensioned fibre covered elastic yarn entrapped between saidstitching and the face of the flap immediately adjacent said lower edge, the free ends of said yarn being chained off with said stitching and anchored to the garment with bar tack stitch'ng.

5. In a union undergarment, the combination of front and back portions formed with v a head opening and a pair of armholes, the back portion having a transverse opening thereacross and dividing the same into a main body portion and a seat, said seat having an elastic webbing across the top thereof having its ends attached to the sides of the garment directly below the armholes, an inside flap extending from thesaid main body portion into the garmentinside the seat, the side edges to of said flap being attached to the garment,

an overlook stitching on. the lower edge of tubular knitted material with a head opening and a pair of armholes, the back portion having a transverse opening thereacross and dividing the same into a main body portion and a seat (said seat having an elastic webbing across the top thereof having its ends attached to the sides of the garment directly below the armholes, means reinforcing the sides of the garment along a line extending from the corresponding end of the Webbing to the bottom of the corresponding armhole, whereby the tension of said webbing when stretched is transmitted to the shoulders of the wearer, and an inside flap extending from the said main .body portion into the garment inside the seat. e

8. In a union undergarment, the combination of front and back portions formed of tubular knitted material, with a head opening and a pair of armholes, the ba'ck'portion having a transverse opening thereacross and* dividing the same into a main body portion and a seat,said seat having an elastic Webbing across the top thereof having its ends attached to the sides of the garment directly below the armholes, reinforcing means comprising a multiple thread fiat lock stitch of the 195 type forming atape like reinforcement extending along the sides of the garment over each end-of the webbing and upwardly to the bottom of the corresponding armhole, whereby the tension of said webbing when stretched is transmitted to the shoulders of the wearer.

In testimony whereof we have hereunto afiixed our signatures.

SAMUEL L. BERGER. ,115 LOUIS LEVENSON, 

